Ultimate Kayak Fishing: Service Abu Revo Toro 60-hs 2009 1138578 Foot 18 00 18/37 Ak - Ultimate Kayak Fishing

Service Abu Revo Toro 60-HS 2009 1138578 foot 18 00 18/37 AK is on a brand new reel, I have not put line on it yet so this is my initial break down of reel to know what needs to be serviced.
Handle Side Picture


Left Front Picture


Bottom Left Picture

I started this reel by removing the right hand side cover. One of the screws for the handle side cover is is under the spool. Loosen the screw from the handle side (see picture) and rotate the cover clockwise and lift it off.
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With the cover off you see the spool and the centrifugal brakes


With the left side plate removed take out the spool and you can remove the screw in the picture. This is the right hand side plate screw and it is OK to remove it first. there are four screws that hold the handle side in place and we will get to them in the next part.


Part 1 of servicing Revo Toro.

OK, so I messed up the handle side pictures and I had to get my helper to shade the flash.


with her help I removed the handle parts

1. Handle Cover Screw
2. Handle Cover
3. Handle Nut
4. Handle
5. Handle Washer (flat version of the tension washer)
6. Star Wheel
7. Spring Washer
8. Spring Washer
9. Drag Tension clicker
10. Large Spring Washer
11. Large Spring Washer

Now we remove the right side plate screws, there are two left on the outside and one that doubles as the oil (inspection) cover plate.
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Carefully lift the side plate ut, there are two springs in there that will fall off if you rough it. With the side plate off, this is what we have.


That's part two, I'll get to part 3 later.

I hope everyone had a relaxing day waiting for the next installment

Remove the two springs (1) and next we remove the gear and drag washers



Next lift off the anti reverse washer, do and the last drag washer


To remove the cover in front of the pawl cover nut (say that fast 3 times) remove the two Phillips screws one on both sides (see bottom arrow since I didn't number the arrows)

Now we remove the pawl cover (I use a dime, it fits the slot better than a screw driver). Don't lose the small washer / spacer and remove the pawl.


Remove the two black screws and lift the axle out. Next remove the C-clip care full so it don't fly away. I have a big zip lock bag that I put the reel in when removing the C-clip since it ends up in the bag 90% of the time. With the C-clip out of the way the worm gear comes out (again be careful, there is a thin washer that may fall off unseen) of the left side. the white nylon (plastic) cover comes off and the line guide pin can be lifted out on the handle side. The worm gear cover comes out on the same side and the line guide is free. This is as far apart as I'm taking this reel now. The two silver screws that are left have lock-tite on them so before you remove them make sure you have some to add to the threads.

Reel is apart except for the side covers and I did not remove any of the bearings yet or the IAR (Instant Anti Reverse). Here are the parts that is removed so far.


Part 3 is done, if you are not confused yet, just wait for part 4.

To remove and clean - service the thumb release the two screws has to be removed and the brown plate (bushing or shim) has to be lifted off.


Next remove the spring (1) and the axle (2) is lose. Spring 3 pops off and the thumb release assembly comes off. The screws in the picture are the screws with loctite on them.


Remove Thumb bar screw


Pull out thumb release bar


To remove the over speed brake and cog wheel you remove the 3 screws and the cog wheel will stay attached to the brake plate.


You can remove the cog wheel by removing the screw. For the clicker you remove the c-clip and tthe clicker comes off.


On the handle side there is one bearing and the IAR bushing and bearing left. To remove the bearing you remove the wire clip and puch the bearing out. You can remove the center bushing from the IAR to clean and grease it.

The reel is apart and clean and dry off the parts prior to assembly. I will use Abu Reel grease and ABU while assembling. Both the oil and the lube have PTFE, both lubricants work in cold and hot weather and both oils are biodegradable (Silicote Reel Lube with PTFE and Silicote Reel Oil with Syncolon^TM PTFE)

Putting the reel back together is supposed to be the same steps backwards. I know that never works for me. I will add the steps and you may have to refer back to the initial images.

Part 4 concludes removing parts, now we have to get your $200.00+ reel back together and fishing again. (PM me if the reel is scrambled and you are planning on throwing it away and I'll give you my address and I'll take the junk off your hands) - I know "very funny"

Reel parts are cleaned and any broken or worn out parts are replaced with fresh parts. I start by putting the left hand side plate back together. It was the last thing I took apart and if you look at the last picture in previous post the grease is already in place.

Put the thumb bar back together, the springs should be hanging like they are when removing them (see pictures from removing). Add the brown bushing (spacer) plate and the two screws. Use a flat needle nose pliers to push the springs back into the frame. Be careful do you don't bend them. I use my fingers and a pick to push them back in. It's impossible to get a picture off it so sorry!

The Carriage screw (worm gear) is cleaned and I do not remove the c-clip (Unless I'm replacing the gear). Slide the small washer on top of the c-clip, then the bearing and at last the larger washer (The large washer go over the bearing).

I slide the pin (axle) down from the Handle side and through the line guide. Then the worm gear shield goes in the same side. the worm gear goes in from the left side and the plastic retainer is placed on top and next comes the c-clip. Install the pawl (don't forget the small washer) and pawl cover. Next the cover in front of the pawl is attached with the two small Phillips machine screws. If there is one modification I will add to this reel it will be drilling a hole in the front cover so i can get to the oil hole in the pawl cover without removing everything.

Next the axle is put back together (if taken apart) starting with the axle plate, bearing and c-clip. Screw the axle into the frame, make sure the L-shaped part is covering the white worm gear retainer tighten down the screws. On the axle you add the following parts in order

1. Anti reverse washer and dog
2. small drag washer
3. drive gear
4. carbontex drag washer
5. Metal drag washer (without the ears)
6. carbontex drag washer
7. metal drag washer with ears, make sure ears go into drive grear slots.
8. carbontex drag washer
9. beveled Metal drag washer (flat side down)

Next is the pinion gear and pinion gear holder, drop them over the two posts and the gears should mesh. Add the two springs and then the handle side cover. Two screws on the outside and 1 on the inside. Now is a good time to verify that the fast cast is working.

Before I put the handle on I add the spool into the frame and the left side cover. That way I can verify the line guide is working by rotating the spool. Tighten the left side cover screw from the handle side. Add the spool tension clicker (black plastic) and the spool tension cap.

Now to finish up the handle side the two tension washers beveled site down for first washer and beveled side up for second. Drag Tension clicker is next and the two small tension washers (Same way as the large washers. Add the star wheel, tighten until it starts clicking and drop the handle washer on and continue tightening the star drag until you see a gap between the washer and the star wheel. This is to insure that the handle and handle nut is tightened down and is not going to loosen up when the star wheel is tightened up. Add the handle, the nut, the nut cover and the cover screw.

Last two pieces are the oil cover and screw over the gear. You are done and if there is no extra parts on the table pat yourself on the back.

There are a lot of parts in this reel, if you are new to servicing reels make sure you take it slow, use your own camera to take pictures as you remove parts, that way you have something to look back at. I have tried to add a lot of pictures and I don't think I have missed any steps on pictures, then again feel free to ask any questions if I have or if you have any additional questions.

My Revo is back together and ready for fishing.

Nils

Go here for the reel schematic for the Ambassadeur REVO TORO 60-HS.

This is the correct reel schematic for my reel foot number

I made a small modification to the reel, there is no easy way to add a drop of oil to the pawl so I cut a slot in the cover in front of the pawl nut (Item 22 part# 1144237)



After removing the factory grease, upgrade bearings and use Hot Sauce reel oil the reel is smoother. Now I have to go fish it to see if it casts any better.

Nils,
Thanks for the helpful breakdown of the Revo Toro.
After using mine for a year from a boat,I wish I had done a complete lubrication BEFORE I started the season. I did an end of season breakdown cleaning and was surprised to see the amount of corrosion that I had despite reasonable care (never submerged, rinsed after every use, lubed a couple of times). Salt got deep into the reel..The spool bearing was stuck and I had to take all the line off to be able to pry the spool out. The pinion shaft bearing and the gear shaft bearing were both damaged from salt an had to be replaced. The latter was a bear to get out.
The short tube (part #49) that fits inside the AR bearing has a subtle bevel on one end. I didnt notice it when I took it out,so I placed it with the bevel against the curved metal drag washer. Seems to be working, did I guess right?
Your post for the revo was invaluable, incredibly helpful and much more complete than anything else on the web.

I bought replacement bearings at boca bearings, prices seemed OK (for single bearings) and delivery was prompt. They were offering a $10 credit for anyone that could supply them with information on bearing sizes for a specific reel. I didn't submit the info from your bearing upgrade post, so if you chose to use Boca, you might be able to save some $.

Mike